GUM Chardonnay
Chardonnay, Cathedral Range
2024
Planted in the early 1980s, the Little River site sits perched at over 400 metres above sea level on the northern volcanic slopes of the Cathedral Range. Though technically just outside the Upper Yarra GI, its harvest occurs around three weeks later.
The high altitude, cool climate, and volcanic soils provide both concentration and freshness at low sugar levels.
Once hand-harvested with careful sorting in the vineyard, the bunches were partially crushed before being firmly pressed as whole clusters. The juice settled overnight, then transferred to a combination of new and seasoned Stockinger puncheons and stainless steel for fermentation and lees aging.
The wine then spent several months in stainless steel on fine lees before racking and bottling, unfined and unfiltered. The only addition was a small dose of sulphur.
Pale with green edges, this Chardonnay opens with glass-filling aromas of crushed rock, struck match, lime and grapefruit zest, white peach, jasmine, and spice. Flavours carry through to a dense and powerful palate, offering savoury complexity and a fine, detailed acid line.
‘An older vine site, some low key winemaking approach.
A younger gen, boutique producer of note.
This has a suppleness and prettiness. Sweet spice sits on stone fruits, ginger and red apple, the wafts of pot pourri, rose hip tea, there too. A touch of bergamot flows in, some cedar and clove gently, green almond and nougat faintly there. Some slippery mouth perfume? Happens. In this, a gentle wine with freshness and cooling fruit profile on its side. In all this too, immense drinkability and charm. Sleek, mostly sophisticated and gentle chardonnay emerges.’
Mike Bennie 93pts
Artwork by Thomas Jeppe.
The high altitude, cool climate, and volcanic soils provide both concentration and freshness at low sugar levels.
Once hand-harvested with careful sorting in the vineyard, the bunches were partially crushed before being firmly pressed as whole clusters. The juice settled overnight, then transferred to a combination of new and seasoned Stockinger puncheons and stainless steel for fermentation and lees aging.
The wine then spent several months in stainless steel on fine lees before racking and bottling, unfined and unfiltered. The only addition was a small dose of sulphur.
Pale with green edges, this Chardonnay opens with glass-filling aromas of crushed rock, struck match, lime and grapefruit zest, white peach, jasmine, and spice. Flavours carry through to a dense and powerful palate, offering savoury complexity and a fine, detailed acid line.
‘An older vine site, some low key winemaking approach.
A younger gen, boutique producer of note.
This has a suppleness and prettiness. Sweet spice sits on stone fruits, ginger and red apple, the wafts of pot pourri, rose hip tea, there too. A touch of bergamot flows in, some cedar and clove gently, green almond and nougat faintly there. Some slippery mouth perfume? Happens. In this, a gentle wine with freshness and cooling fruit profile on its side. In all this too, immense drinkability and charm. Sleek, mostly sophisticated and gentle chardonnay emerges.’
Mike Bennie 93pts
Artwork by Thomas Jeppe.